Thursday, February 28, 2008

A Gorgeous February Sunset

During our now infamous lockdown (a punishment for working for the American military in Okinawa), I found that we needed some groceries & I needed some exercise, so I rode my bicycle (best piece of trash I've ever picked up from the side of the road) from home to Camp Foster's commissary (No, sir, I did NOT stop anywhere in between & off base, General).

I was impressed by the day's magnificent sunset & snapped about 4 good shots with my camera phone. These were taken from the intersection of Highways 58 & 130, near the NW corner of Camp Foster. Here's the first (to see more click on it & then check out the following 3):

From Okinawa Sunsets

Reality about Crime & Punishment in Okinawa

UPDATE: As of Tuesday, March 4th, we've been freed. Zilmer relieved family members & civilians from the restrictions & modified things for the active duty folks to only between 10pm & 5am along with a 24-hour prohibition of alcohol consumption off-base, unless in the home of a SOFA-status person. Thankfully, reason has finally returned to the situation, despite reports of an idiot airman breaking into a business with alcohol on his breath just 2 days before the revised order.


If you want to get a realistic idea of the crime rate as perpetrated by people living on Okinawa under the US-Japan SOFA (Status Of Forces Agreement), please analyze the data presented at the following link:
SOFA crime on Okinawa

This is definitely the most over-hyped situation that I have experienced in my 30+ years of life, thus far. The military community on Okinawa is, without challenge (that I'm aware of), committing crimes at a LOWER rate than the rest of the population, including rapes & other sexual crimes (of which experts purport that the majority are not reported in Japanese society). The initial suspect of rape against the 14 year old girl was immediately turned over to local police & has not even been CHARGED with rape (no substantial evidence of the girl's claim has yet been revealed). He HAS admitted to forcing her to kiss him, which is deplorable & criminal (I assume & hope). HE should be punished for that. The Filipino adult female who more recently accused an Army sergeant of rape in a hotel room has not yet pressed formal charges, reportedly (the following is hearsay, I admit) due in large part to the fact that she is a professional “comfort woman” living here in Okinawa on an “entertainment” visa. In other words, she uses her body to entice men for a living (whether she engages in intercourse for money is not yet clear). If that man indeed forced sexual contact with her against her will, HE should be punished, according to the terms of the law. But there is NO WAY that such a crime would NORMALLY be noticed & covered by so many international news media sources, whether or not it should be. The other few crimes that are involved in recent media coverage of "the situation" include:
(a) DWI charges against a Marine (a MUCH bigger problem among the local Okinawan population that relies on personal vehicles, due to inadequate public transportation options) &
(b) an intoxicated Marine entering the wrong unlocked residence & falling asleep (nothing was damaged & no one was harmed).
These crimes are, just like all crimes everywhere, regrettable & deserve punishment TO THOSE THAT COMMITTED THEM.

Is it really so HARD for those in "charge" here to recognize these facts & react accordingly, rather than making HASTY & UNFAIR orders that punish those that have never agreed to give up their rights & freedoms without just cause? Apparently so!!

For over a week now (& for at least another to come), none of the approximately 45,000 people living on Okinawa under the SOFA are allowed to CHOOSE to pursue activities of leisure & happiness, as granted to all other free peoples on the island. They may NOT CHOOSE where they spend their law-abiding, personal, "free" time, whether along the street they live on or in the stores where they normally purchase their food. They may NOT CHOOSE to join in the very obvious intentions of "leadership" to effect an unofficial boycott of the local economy, in order to prove that the US military IS wanted here (as if that was every a real question mark in ANYONE'S mind). In other words, these "orders" are directed not ONLY at the 22,000 military personnel (that are being compensated in so many ways for their willing cooperation with every order & whim of their commanding leadership, regardless of just cause or dessert), which is the common verbiage in so much news coverage (the "troops" are on lockdown in Okinawa). But they are also aimed at wives & children and at the many CIVILIAN Americans who came here to SUPPORT the military's mandate of preserving FREEDOM & civil LIBERTIES. Civilians work here as teachers & counselors & therapists in DoD schools. They provide medical expertise & care to supplement the military's own resources, as needed. Most came here as eager representatives of the American spirit of independence & freedom. Some of us (perhaps many) sacrificed high paying jobs to come to Okinawa to provide these needed expert services, during this time of intense military conflict around the globe. In exchange for our sacrifice, we desired ONLY to be able to get to know a new & beautiful culture, AFTER working for the 40 hours per week for which we are only compensated. Apparently that was expecting too much. Apparently these leaders believe that we "enlisted" & gave up our rights & freedoms, willingly following orders whether or not they infringe on our rights. Without so much as an "I'm sorry & I realize this is unjust, but please cooperate for the following good reasons... x, y & z" they imposed a ridiculous order, effectively removing us of all reason to work for them any longer. We consider that to be hey are WRONG!!

In the United States of America, believe it or not, we do not punish or in any way unreasonably restrict those that have neither committed nor been charged with a crime or offense. We do not restrict the civil liberties & rights of a people GROUP based on the offenses of a VERY SMALL FEW within that group. "Jim Crow" laws in the South are no longer in place. Anyone can sit at the front of the bus now. We punish only those that are proven to commit crimes & restrict (pending trial) only those that are suspected. We do not support leaders that move from a reasonable midnight curfew of the group from which every single offender has come (active-duty US Marines) all the way to an unjust & unusual restrictive "order" that includes ALL SOFA-STATUS PEOPLES, including completely righteous ambassadors of American generosity. I'm told that this is the type of "order" used in the past for such events as the reaction to terrorist attacks on 9/11/2001 (which forever altered the perception of global terrorism in the US) & the brutal rape & torture of a 12 year old girl by 3 US Marines on Okinawa in 1995 (which prompted the public protest by over 80,000 citizens who were rightly outraged by such a heinous & undisputed crime).

And yet here we are. Our every waking moment is subject to the very apparently hasty & INEPT decisions of a few (maybe even 1) US military commanders that have displayed little (if any) regard for the people that are being forcibly involved, against all of the reasons for which we agreed to be here and AGAINST the highest ideals that our military is supposed to be instilling in war-torn (not to even mention peaceful, like Okinawa & Japan) places around the planet. The truth, apparently, is that these US military "leaders" cannot or simply will not treat its own people the way that the US constitution & laws mandate. And let me be clear, that is REALLY infuriating & very sad & COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY!!! If the US military won't stand up & preserve freedom & basic human rights, who will?

Saturday, February 23, 2008

Kariyushi Classic 2008

I have not been regularly playing my favorite sport over the past year of living here in Okinawa, due mostly to the lack of much opportunity here (well, not as much as I was spoiled with in NC). There is a university team that plays not terribly far from where we live, but as a 30 yr old gaijin that is unable to communicate & is largely interested in playing at a completely different level, I find practicing with them somewhat frustrating, although they are some of the nicest people that we've ever met. I've been meaning to get involved with a team of graduated alumni from the school but just haven't yet done so.

However, I did get a great opportunity to play ultimate again for the first time in months during the 3rd annual 1-day tournament, Kariyushi Classic, held here in Okinawa & attended by approximately 100 players from all over Japan (mostly from the Tokyo & Osaka area, but also a few from Hokkaido & Kyushu). And I had a blast participating. I won't say that I wasn't sore for the next several days, but it was well worth it! The 2 teams I played with (there were 2 divisions, one of 4 teams & the other of 8) finished with a combined 3 wins & 2 losses, each placing 3rd in the respective division. I'm not actually in any of these photos, which were all snapped with my cell phone while spectating:

But here is a link to another Okinawan player's photo album that does contain a few shots of myself in "action": Syuji's "Kariyushi Classic 2008" album

Monday, February 18, 2008

Camping & Biking on Northernmost Okinawa

We spent a couple of days over the Presidents' Day weekend exploring more of Okinawa in a new way. We joined our friend Chris (coworker of Betsy) & his 2 oldest kids, Audra & Kimbell, on a camping & biking adventure on the very northern end of the island. We drove up to the beach beside Cape Hedo & parked our vans in the sand for the night. We gathered enough driftwood for a roaring campfire & had a lovely dinner of hotdogs & sausages. After a semi-restful night's sleep, we loaded up after breakfast & made our way to the Kayauchi Banta lookout point nearby, where we began our bike ride. We set off first south along the western coast, before cutting across the island's rugged terrain on Route 2. And then we headed up the eastern coast. 32 miles later, after more than a few stops & far more hills & cramping than anticipated, we arrived back at our starting point.

Thursday, February 07, 2008

Another gorgeous Okinawan Sky - 7 Feb 08

As I was driving to AEIS for a full day of substitute teaching, I was quite awestruck by the skies. So as I stopped at lights & intersections on Kadena Air Base, I snapped a few photos, starting with this one:

From Okinawa Skies

Sunday, February 03, 2008

Motobu in February (Expo Park's Oceanic Culture Musuem & Pizza Cafe Kajinho... again!)

Venturing north early on an overcast February weekend turned out to be a pretty good idea. We had the pleasant company of our good friends, Aaron & Masayo & their friend (now ours too) Yumiko. Our day in Motobu included some viewing of the blooming Taiwanese cherry trees on Yaedake. We walked around the festival-like row of booths & then the blossom lined streets, enjoying a few local snacks in the meantime. That was followed by a visit to Expo Park (Aaron & Masayo's first, I believe) where we checked out the Oceanic Culture Museum (our first time also, since it's only recently been opened after a long period of renovation) & the free Dolphin Show (I believe this was my 6th time to see it, I'm a seasoned critic now). At the museum we were treated to an unexpected performance of Indonesian (Bali-style) traditional musicians & dancers. It was pretty cultural looking. The final & most tasty part of the day was a yummy pizza & salad meal at Pizza Cafe Kajinho (aka "Pizza In The Sky"; yes, we've stopped counting the number of times we've been & number of friends we've introduced it to). Highlighted in our photographic memoirs are some performances by an Indonesian dance & music group inside the Oceanic Culture Museum, as well as just a few more shots at Kajinho.

&

Friday, January 25, 2008

Tokyo: After the gals left us

To drown our depression when our wives headed back to Okinawa without us, Rick & I checked out the "electric" neigborhood of Akihabara (where basically any product that uses electronic circuitry or electricity can be purchased). Our mission was to locate cheap SD memory cards for our cameras. Mission was accomplished at about the 5th huge store that we checked out in a 2-block radius - a 2GB card for $16 & a 1GB for $7.50!

We spent the next lovely day in the eastern area of Tokyo, first strolling from the subway station to the Museam of Contemporary Art (in Miyoshi, Koto-ku). After investigating its works, we photographed our way thru Kiba Park before eventually finding ourselves on a blue bridge spanning the Sumida-gawa [river] which offered some wonderful city views around dusk, at which point we strolled our way to the brightly-lit Ginza district. We found some yummy ramen & gyoza for dinner not far from Shinbashi station. We awoke to a very snowy winter's morning on Wed (& I was already starting to miss Okinawa's balmy weather), but it didn't really seem that much colder (thankfully). We set out by subway to the National Art Center just north of Roppongi Hills for our first stop. We were thrilled by its very intriguing architecture & intrigued by its method of hosting changing exhibitions in its multiple gallery areas. None really piqued our interest, although we did briefly stroll through what seemed to be a cooperative show, crammed full of pieces showcasing myriad themes, artists & mediums. So we spent most of our time just marveling & photographing around the building's public spaces. After that we decided to walk in the snow (which soon turned into drizzly rain) rather than jump on the subway again (a rookie mistake, by my calculation). I snapped a few shots in the very scenic cemetery near the art center. Our eventual destination (after a weather reprieve at Starbucks & a delicious lunch of Kaiten-zushi on Omotesandō Street) was the Meiji Jingu shrine located alongide Yoyogi Park near Harajuku station. The weather ruined quite a few photos, but it did not keep us from marveling at this very impressive Shinto site. Thursday turned out to be quite clear so we made our way to the East Gardens (Higashi Gyoen) of the Imperial Palace. Despite the day's brightness & the gardens' beauty, my camera battery did not recharge itself overnight for this visit, so it wasn't a huge ordeal for me when we only really inspected half of it thoroughly, before heading off to the Hara Museum of Contemporary Art. After checking out of the hostel on Friday, backpacks in tow, we made our way (after a souvenir stop at the gift shop of the Edo-Tokyo Museum) to Odaiba for some stunning views towards Tokyo, especially from the suspended Rainbow Bridge stretching across Tokyo Bay, which we walked across on separate sides (Rick got the city side & I took the harbor view) to let our combined photos tell the full story, as our limited time mandated. It was not fun being separated for 4 days but Tokyo definitely impressed us both. As far as cities of that size that we've seen (i.e. New York, Chicago, London, Hong Kong, Seoul, etc.) it seemed to be the cleanest & least congested. It really seemed quite livable (unlike our opinion of the rest). Perhaps we'll find ourselves spending more time there someday! ;-)

Monday, January 21, 2008

Tokyo: It only took us a year to get there!!

So only 1 year after moving to Japan, we finally got around to checking out that one city that most of the rest of the world thinks about when they think of Japan. That's correct. We finally checked out Tokyo!! I'm not sure that we INTENTIONALLY put it off for so long, but we did. So we were thrilled to finally get there for a long holiday (MLK Jr Day) weekend (which turned into a full week for the one of us whose time is somewhat more flexible than the other's). We found nicely timed & inexpensive flights via the only Japanese discount carrier that serves Okinawa, Skymark Airlines. And then we convinced our friends Rick & Denise to join us. And then we found the lovely inexpensive hostel Toukaisou with availability in a 4-person room in the northeastern neighborhood of Asakusa. And that's where the adventure began!

We discovered after making our plans that our newly returned friends, Aaron & Masayo, were also going to be spending the same weekend in Tokyo, so we arranged a dinner rendezvous with them & Anne-Line, whom we'd met at their wedding last April. We thoroughly enjoyed a delicious & delightful meal at an Indonesian (Bali-style) restaurant in a huge skyscraper at Roppongi Hills. The highlight of our visit was a day of sumo spectating at the major January tournament (1 of only 3 major honbasho tournaments per year in Tokyo, 3 others occur in other major Japanese cities) at the huge stadium Ryōgoku Kokugikan. We purchased tickets ahead of time to ensure we could get in on Saturday, Day 4 of 15, which was wise since tickets sold out first thing that morning only a few minutes after the box office opened. So since we spent a bit more than we could have per ticket, we decided to make an event out of it & we arrived around noon, in time to see the junior divisions compete (without all the posturing & delays that happen with the upper divisions). So along with hearty bowls of chankonabe (for only 200 yen each!) in our bellies, we were quite prepared to really get into the spirit of fandom once the stadium began to fill up around 3pm, the enthusiasm increasing steadily until the final 2 matches involving the currently active yokozuna, both from Mongolia, just after 5:30pm. It was quite an experience, a sport we can truly appreciate now that we've really seen what these men have to do to win. The gals' last full day included a lovely day in & around Ueno Park, including a visit to the Tokyo National Museum. The evening was spent admiring the fashions on display along Takeshita Street in the Harajuku area before grabbing some tasty Thai cuisine on Omotesandō. We arose quite early (4:20 am) on Monday morning to catch the first subway train of the day (5:08 am) so we could experience the glory & wonders at Tsukiji's Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market where feeding one of the planet's largest cities is the main priority. It was quite fascinating to see so many edible aquatic species, styrofoam boxes & especially the auctioneers selling row upon row of huge frozen tuna. And that was before the sun came up! Once we'd taken in all we could, we found the nearby food stall (I hesitate to use the word "restaurant") alley & decided upon one that, while not having actual descriptions in English, allowed gaijin to patron & had obvious enough photos on their walls for us to indicate our dining desires (using a laser pointer; ingenious idea on their part). We thoroughly savored the freshest sashimi on rice (perhaps it was more properly chirashi-zushi) that we'll probably ever taste & arrived back at the hostel around 8:15am to begin our day with Rick & Denise. The final highlight for our foursome in Tokyo included a visit to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku. After checking out the North Tower's impressive observatory lookout, we were perusing the tourist office on the first floor when a volunteer guide offered us a free tour of the premises. She was a delightful woman, who had lived for several years in New Orleans (while her husband was a professor at Tulane). She showed us all around the buildings & passed on some very interesting information about Tokyo, before showing us the South Tower's equally impressive views of the rest of the city. That concluded the excursions & time in Tokyo for the hard-working gals, but the boys had decided to stay for the rest of the week & see a few more things. So early that afternoon we headed to Haneda Airport & got the gals back on a plane to Okinawa.

Friday, January 18, 2008

Engrish sighting: Shikwasa Cake!

From Engrish

Spotted in one of the large Okinawa airport souvenir shops on the 2nd level, same as the boarding gates. Shikwasa is sometimes called Okinawa Lime, although it's not as sour & larger. It's a very tasty citrus fruit with green skin & yellow meat.

"Shikwasa Cake - It is the cake which used the fresh shikwasa in plenty and the craftsman roasted thoroughly sincerely. Please taste with relish. We send one time which feels relieved to you."

Saturday, January 05, 2008

Exploring Naha (Fukushu-en, Naminoue & Kinjocho)

One of our first adventures in 2008 was to head south to Naha city (the capital & largest city, by population, of both the island & prefecture). We had heard about several attractions that sounded like excellent places to relax & sight-see. So we spent a lovely first Saturday of 2008 exploring first the west side of Naha. Since we had not brought our real camera along for the ride (hey, it happens to the best intentioned adventurer, right?), all of our photos were taken with our Toshiba camera phones, which thankfully sport a CMOS 3MP sensor for decent sized (& reasonable quality) shots.

Our first stop was the lovely Fukushu-en Garden. This garden was officially opened to the public in 1992 to commemorate the 10th anniversary of international friendship ties between Naha City and Fuzhou City in China. This genuine Chinese garden was built using materials from Fuzhou and with techniques unique to that city.

From there we walked to the nearby Naminoue-gu Shrine, which is adjacent to (well, overlooking really) Naminoue Beach. The beach is located on the west side of the Wakasa Seaside Park, and is the only beach in Naha City. Former head of the Eight Shrines of Okinawa, the shrine is located on top of a precipice. An old shrine dedicated to the Buddha incarnate of the three shrines of Kumano, it had a devout following during the Ryukyu kingdom era. Rebuilt after being reduced to ash in the war, this shrine was reconstructed in 1998. We were privileged to witness the first shrine visit of the year for many locals (a very special occasion, on the level of Christmas festivities for Christian westerners). After that we drove around to the east side to find the old Kinjo-cho stone pavement, a 300m long road that leads to Shuri Castle from the southwest.

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